Routes to the Summit
There are a number of 'normal routes' to the summit,
offering a wide variety of climbing for more than 2000 people who reach the top
every year.
The
Gouter Ridge - the most frequented ascent route,
the route that we usually take, & the one that gives the greatest chance of
success.
From the end of the Mont Blanc tramway at the Nid d'Aigle 2372m, the route goes up
to the Tete Rousse hut at 3167m. We stay here for an early evening meal, &
1am breakfast; or continue up to the -
Gouter Hut 3817m after
crossing the Great Couloir & an easy scramble up a long rocky rib running
down from the hut. Staying at this hut allows a later breakfast & a 2am
start.
From the Gouter Hut, the
route traverses the Dome du Gouter, descending slightly to the Col du Dome,
before ascending to the Vallot Hut at 4362m. Another 2 hours or so takes the
climber over the Bosses Ridge, to reach the final snow arete leading to the
summit.
The ascent from the Tete
Rousse hut usually takes from seven to eight hours, arriving at the summit just
after dawn. The views are panoramic from the Pennine peaks in the east, to the
Gran Paradiso in the south. 'There is nothing to look up to; all is below....'
From the Cosmiques
hut
3613m, this fine ascent is slightly longer than the Gouter
route.
From the top of the Aiguille du Midi telepherique station 3795m, the Cosmiques
hut is reached easily in an hour or so.
From the hut, the route
first ascends the side of Mt. Blanc du Tacul, before climbing the steep snow
slope to the Col du Mt. Maudit 4345m. after the slopes of the Mur de la Cote, a
broad ridge leads onto the summit of Mont Blanc. Descent is either by the same
way, by the Gouter route, or down the Grands Mulets route to Chamonix.
Our Courses
The highest peak in western Europe is
attainable for all levels of mountaineers, provided they have
good fitness & stamina. We offer courses which are designed to give maximum
chance of success over either one or two weeks. Whatever length of course, the
most important ingredients for a comfortable & successful ascent of Mont
Blanc - good acclimatisation to altitude, training & practice in crevasse
rescue & movement on snow using ice-axe & crampons - they are covered.
One week programme Five days. Designed to provide a basic acclimatisation to at least 4000m, with at least
one night spent in a high mountain hut. Three days are reserved for the ascent
of Mont Blanc, to allow flexibility in choosing the best weather window. If
the weather forecast is good, the extra day allowed for Mont Blanc is
taken up by staying up at a high hut & climbing another summit.
A sample one-week programme, based from Saas Grund
- the Mont Blanc range can get very busy during July &
August, so we work from Switzerland for people who might appreciate the quieter
mountains & huts over in the Swiss Valais region.
# Day one - lift to the Hohsass hut
3098m, from Saas Grund. 'Ecole du Glace' on the Triftgletscher.
# Day two - ascent of the Weissmies 4023m, descent to the Hohsass hut.
# Day three/four/five - ascent of Mont Blanc.
Two week
courses Last for twelve days, with 10 days of
guiding and two rest days
included, includes the ascent of at least three peaks over 3800m for the best
acclimatisation. The mountain area we prefer for two week courses is the Swiss
Valais, based in the Saastal & Matter valleys. From here it is possible to access a range of
magnificent peaks including some famous names such as the Weissmies,
Lagginhorn, Dom, Alphubel, Allalinhorn & Strahlhorn - all above 4000m for
maximum acclimatisation. The huts are generally quieter, Chamonix & Mont Blanc
is no more than 2 hours drive down the Rhone valley.
A
sample two week programme
# Day 1 - Mon. lift to the Hohsass hut
3098m, from Saas Grund. 'Ecole du Glace' on the Triftgletscher.
# Day 2 - Tues. ascent of the Weissmies 4023m, descent to the Hohsass hut.
# Day 3 - Wed. ascent of Lagginhorn 4010m, descent to valley.
# Day 4 - Thurs. rest day.
# Day 5 - Fri. lift to Felskin from Saas Fee, walk to Britannia hut 3030m. descend to valley.
# Day 6 - Sat. ascent of Allalinhorn 4027m, by Hohlaubgrat, (grade AD)
# Day 7 - Sun. walk to Tasch hut 2701m.
# Day 8 - Mon. ascend the Alphubel 4206m, descend to valley.
# Day 9 - Tues. rest day.
# Day 10/11/12 - Wed/Thur/Fri. ascent of Mont Blanc.
Cost
For our one week course, with five days of
guiding, and six nights self-catering accommodation in
Saas Grund, the cost per person is £950
For our two week course, with ten days of guiding and 13 nights accommodation
in Saas Grund, the cost per person is
£1650
The cost covers all Guiding fees, hut fees, all
valley transport to & from your accommodation & to/from uplift stations or start
points. Crampons & ice-axes, helmets & harness' are provided for the duration of
the course if you need any of these items. It also includes B&B accommodation at
the Hotel Schoenblick, Saas Grund.
All of
guides hut & lift costs are paid for.
You would
only need to budget extra for Alpine mountaineering Insurance (about £30 for a 5
day course), your meals when you are down in the valley (mountain huts, included
in the price, provide B&B & an evening meal), and any mountain lifts we
use to get up from the valley. Getting to Saas Grund (or Visp, the nearest
railway station & on a direct line from Geneva airport) is by train from Geneva
airport, cost about £54 return.
Accommodation
You have a room at the Hotel Schoenblick, Saas Grund, on a B&B basis.
There are three campsites in Saas
Grund, from within 15 to 25 minutes walking distance of the village. Cost around £8 per person.
Dates
We run Mont Blanc courses from early May up to the end of
September.
For
the week long itinerary, courses run from the Sunday
evening introduction, to the Friday. Five days of guiding.
For
the two week course Sunday night is spent on introductions,
running to Friday afternoon. Ten days of guiding.
Call us with your preferred dates,
we offer anything from a 'long weekend' - starting on the Friday, finishing on
the Monday - to as long as you want.
